Automotive Paints for the Engine Compartment and Frame - What's Right and Wrong

When I watch what goes on on these message boards I would like to pull my hair out. I see things like, "Don't use metal prep because then the paint will fall off."  This is incorrect--metal prep is your first line of defense against rust. Also, it was designed to promote adhesion. The other one that irks me is "Just put epoxy primer on and leave it that way.". Well, the problem with that statement is, if you have a old car they generally leak everything. I know mine certainly do. (Okay, I'm not a great mechanic, so sue me.) The fact of the matter is automotive paints do not fare well against brake fluid, battery acid, gasoline, oils and stone chipping. All these chemicals and stone chipping will cause an automotive paint system to eventually fail. For instance the old DP 40, according to the datasheet, would do 500 hours of salt spray. This was two coats of DP 40, five coats of color, and two coats of clear--500 hours. If you scratch it, rust will travel. Think of that while you assemble your freshly painted chassis. Mastercoat Permanent Rust Sealer, on the other hand, will do 14,000 hours salt spray. When scratched it doesn't travel like conventional paints. The test was done with two coats of Mastercoat Permanent Rust Sealer and one coat of AG 111 ultimate chassis paint. AG111, by the way, has the highest resistance is to all the chemicals in automotive use. If you have any questions, we can discuss this. Just call 1-800-833-8933.

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Mastercoat® Ultimate Permanent Rust Sealer SILVER Primer, Original & Sprayable Slim

Mastercoat® Metal Prep & Rust Remover